Somehow the Italians haven’t managed to let Christmas drown in commercialisation – it’s still a festival of the church – and of food. Presents aren’t given until the 6th January with the Befana, an old woman, arriving in the night bringing gifts. Which means that celebrations concentrate on families sharing food together.
Everyone gives gifts of Panettone, the sweet airy bread-like cake that has become so popular here. The tins are beautiful but often the cake is left after Christmas, so try using it in this Italian bread and butter pudding with creamy mascarpone.